May 18-22

After getting my mom on her plane in Rome, I hopped a train to Florence to pick up good friends from the Bay Area. Tacy and Bill were staying for about 4 days, then heading to Elba, Napoleon's isle of exile, for sea kayaking and desultory attempts at exercise.

What a blast! We spent a night in Florence, exploring a bit of the Santa Croce neighborhood... great fun. Wandering the streets in search of a good dinner spot, we settled on Cibreo, which had great food (if slow service). Our table was outside and the feeling of being in a city surrounded by life and activity was energizing. However, the wine and their jet lag acted as a balance and after a thoroughly fulfilling meal, we were comatose. The next day we made a pit stop at a favorite spot... the food market. What a gorgeous display of cheeses, porcini, vegetables, meats, wine and olive oils! Bill was in his element, surrounded by the stinkiest of cheeses and the sweetest balsamic vinegars. We left with bags of food (as if the countryside doesn't have any) and the fax number of the shop so Bill can continue getting his fix of exquisite cheeses. As a birthday gift, Tacy and Bill bought me a huge hunk of a good parmesan cheese. My larder runneth over.

We took a day to wander Bevagna and Montefalco, both beautiful medieval towns. Bevagna is small, nestled in the valley. Every June they launch a traditional artisan's festival where all the local craftspeople dress in medieval garb and showcase wares made according to the old traditions. Tacy and I both bought jewelry from Mr. Marroni, who took great pains to explain his medieval designs and be sure we knew that the work was original and only sold in Bevagna.

Montefalco is a walled hill town that juts like a pimple from the middle of the valleycovering offering 360-degree views of Umbria. Known for olive oil and a traditional sacred red wine, they also lay claim to some interesting churches... some with frescoes, others with mummified saints. Something for everyone -- gastronome, art lover and ghoul. We lunched at Coccorone. Quite nice. Bill ordered a nice bottle of Sagrantino di Montefalco and we liked it so well, we pilfered an unfinished bottle from the table next to us. Our "theft" was a comedy... with me offering to create a diversion by falling backwards over the stair railing a la Chevy Chase. After all, it is a bit embarrassing to swipe unfinished bottles of wine. Diversionary tactics limit witnesses. Thankfully, all it took was excusing myself for the loo... though I was happy to risk extensive bruising and possible fractures for that Sagrantino.

Our last big adventure was in Umbertide. Bill was interested in visiting a local tailor who makes custom suits for $250-500, depending on materials. We toddled in late in the afternoon the day before the Elba excursion. Bill wanted 2 suits. We were told it would take 10-15 days, with a second visit for fitting. Obviously, we had not thought it through. It didn't occur to us that a) the tailor would need Bill later to fit the suit and b) none of us spoke Italian. By the time we left the shop, Italian was running out of my ears. Having no experience with tailors, I had none of the vocabulary necessary. Nor was I confident that I had the timing and tenses right. But I must say it turned out well. Once it became apparent that Bill and Tacy would not be passing through again, the estimate was revised to 4 ½ days and they would fit him immediately, using some off the rack clothes. You can imagine our skepticism and my fear that something in my translation would be way off. However, I picked up the suits last week and everything looks great... right fabric, right styles, 2 sleeves, 2 legs and a working fly on each suit. I can hardly wait to hear if they come anywhere near fitting Bill.

My big thrill? Tacy is possibly the most aggressive driver I know outside of Italy. You may be happy to know that, although she pronounced my car a lawnmower, she has deemed me a good driver. Fast enough that she doesn't get antsy but safe enough not to worry. That is tantamount to an AMA seal of approval.

May 11-18

My mom visited my little home for a week. She signed up for a 2 week course on Italian culture and history, based out of Assisi. I met up with her on the last day and we came back to Pantano for a week long relaxed visit. Assisi was in the midst of Calendamaggio, a medieval pageant welcoming spring. The entire town dressed up in traditional costumes to challenge one another in cross bow and other competitions. Watching the Assassins parade along the narrow stone alleys in 2002 makes you wonder what this festival might have been like 600 or 700 years ago. This was my first visit to Assisi... a good introduction.

My mom's class had already visited a fair few of the local hill towns, so we concentrated on lazing and wandering in the countryside. Absolutely essential was my preferred tour... Top Shops in Umbertide (shops chosen by me, resident expert). My mom bought me a summer hat and a beautiful purse (burlap cloth beaded with carnelian and mother of pearl) for my birthday all from Offredi, my favorite store in town. All in all, we did little or nothing -- a good ending after her 2 week course. And these days, I have idleness honed to a fine edge.

May 5

Cinco de Mayo! Or, as they say here Cinque de Maggio. We've been on this kick to experiment with other cuisines. Now it is Mexico's turn. We planned a party at Elizabeth's in the unfinished stalla that opens into the garden. Mark and I decorated with bright paper garlands and globes, fresh fruit and vegetables on the tables. Very festive. Although the menu started out larger and more complex, we came to our senses and simplified. Final menu: salsa, guacamole, chips, raw veggies to dip (not Mexican really, but needed.), vegetarian black beans, red beans with sausage, chicken tostadas with handmade tortillas, cornbread, Mexican wedding cookies and sangria. Some delightful guest brought tequila and real limes (unheard of in Italy), so we broke out Mark's Naked Lady Torso shot glasses and toured the room introducing the locals to the tradition of tequila shots. It was tough to get them to do the salt, shot, lime in the right order.

Because I am becoming a fashionista, it is important to give the lowdown on my outfit. I'd bought a cute skirt in Faenza, a white full skirt with splashy red, melon, black and tan flowers. I paired it with a black microfiber top, sleeveless with a boat neck, tan sandals and my fireworks necklace from Anghiari. Melchiorre, after 3 tequila's, told me I looked like a mariposa (butterfly).

Elisabeth did a grand job with the food. She organized a squadra of four friends to help with preparation that afternoon so everything went smoothly. And the food was a hit! The tortillas were great. We are bringing a multi-ethnic sensibility to greater Umbertide! I met all kinds of new folks, some who have been entrenched for years and new arrivals as well.

May 1

Adventurers that we are, Elisabeth and I went to the artisan's fair in Anghiari. It was a sunny day and the narrow stone streets were warm and crowded with wood workers, basket makers, ceramicists, cheese and salami makers, jewelers.. craft people of all sorts. We wandered through the piazza, chancing on a dalmation standing in the barred window garden of a local house. It was a great photo. As I was taking the shot, a little boy stopped to ask what I was doing. "Taking a picture of the dog." "Why? Take a picture of me!" So I did... you can see it in the new photo album. Cute boy... very intense about having his picture taken. Later in our travels we found an interesting young woman who does beadwork necklaces... unusual stuff. Some look like fireworks going off, others like tropical flowers hugging the neck. I loved her work. I succumbed to a fireworks necklace. It was very inexpensive and now I wish I'd bought two.

We have been gardening up a storm. It's the season for planting and preparing for summer, so 8 hour gardening days are not unusual. Elisabeth and I meet for a coffee and a pastry early, then drive to the garden center. Rita, the owner, has a good selection of plants, many of which she raises from seed. We walk about, discuss different ideas, and fill both cars with plants for the 6 or 7 gardens we work in. Then we high tail it back to plant. Its tiring and hot, but very satisfying. You see a tangible end result. A very lovely end result. Our herb garden at the DuPlessis looks fabulous. The coriander and borage seeds have sprouted and all that remains is for us to fill in with the vegetables. My herb and vegetable gardens here look great, too. I've mulched heavily with grass clippings to keep the moisture in and the recent rains have made everything take off. In fact, some potential buyers of the property were here last weekend. The gentleman admired my vegetable garden and we spent about 15 minutes talking beans, rotations and mulch. (They are from the Philadelphia area, coincidentally.) His wife and I traded secrets of ricotta cheesecake recipes. Its her favorite cheesecake (and hard to find).